Sunday, October 10, 2010

Maamaa's Philosophy



I live with a visionary who I call "maamaa" (uncle).  

As a child, Madan Rai, was a porter.  He carried loads on his back like a mule to survive.  He had no shoes.  When he stepped on a thorn, it would break rather than pierce his leather-hard soles.  He lived in the village of Ratancha, Khotang District, Nepal.  His father abandoned him and his mother to fight the all-powerful Rana family in support of the King Tribhuvan. He lived with his mother and paternal grandparents - farmers.  During that time, he had one set of clothes in a year.  No proper jacket in the cold.  His clothes would be worn to rags well before the next set came. He would look forward to Dasain all year when he would get 15 paisa (100 paisa = 1 rupee) - 5 paisa from each of his uncles, his only pocket money all year. 


Under the Rana regime, anyone caught reading or learning to write without their express permission, could have their hands chopped off.  When the King implemented public education after the Revolution in 1951, some conservative villagers feared education, believing it would corrupt their children by making them lazy or even turning them into thieves.  Madan's grandfather was among their ranks. Madan would be punished after sneaking off to study when he said he was tending the goats and other livestock.  His mother supported him, but had little power in their home.  By the time Madan was 8 it became clear that he would go to school, with or without his grandfather's blessing.  So reluctantly, he was allowed to go.  He was very bright, curious, and ambitious - and proved an excellent student.  Despite his late start, he finished primary and middle school in just 4 years.   He  wanted to go to high school, but the only one around was in the next district.  His grandfather agreed to fund his education on one condition - that he got married so that his wife would take care of his grandparents.  At the age of 13, he married a 15 year old girl who proved to be an abusive drunk.  He went to high school and completed his School Leaving Certificate after class 10.  To continue his education, he had to find his father.  Following a return address from an old letter on foot, with a 5 gram gold earring from his mother for funds, he traveled south to Janakpur to find his father.  After more than a month of traveling and searching, he was welcomed by a proud father, who took him to Kathmandu to continue his studies.  His father left Madan in the care of his two wives, not one, but two stepmothers to torture this young man.  He was made a slave in his home.  That alone would not be so bad, he said, if he was given enough to eat.  He was always hungry.  But still he excelled in his studies, his one way out...

He won scholarships and at last his efforts were rewarded.  By some way or another (I haven't heard this part of the story yet) he managed to escape from his first marriage and his stepmothers and got a very good job with the government.  Unlike many Nepali civil servants, Madan took his job seriously.  He believed he could do some good work for his country.  You may have heard of the famous apples in Marpha?  That was his doing.  He worked for the UN in Tanzania and has traveled all over the world.  He has degrees from universities in more countries than he cares to count, awards from many governments and NGOs, and houses and land scattered throughout the country.  

At the age of 62, the life expectancy for Nepali men, he realized something.  All the wealth and fame he has does not mean he doesn't suffer. He decided to devote his retired life to trying to ease the suffering of people in Khotang.  

These are some things I have learned from him:

-This life is just a bus stop.  The bus is coming, but when is a mystery.  It could be today or it could be in 50 years.  It could be when you are sleeping.  It could be when you are trying to cross the street.  It could be in a battle or a car accident or a disease.  But the bus will come and when it comes you can't take anything with you, you can't say "Oh just a minute, I'm busy right now."  So where is there time at this bus stop to trouble others, to be angry, to hoard, to quarrel - it's a waste of time.  Nothing you own is yours, you are just using it for the time being.
  
-Ni^3 (nicubed) - his prayer and blessing for others:
                  Nirogi hos, NiDar hos, Nispaksha hos 
                  Be healthy, fearless, and fair.
Rather than a long life, I wish a healthy life because the bus could come at any time.  Don't fear problems because they come and go.  They are a natural part of the cycle and they present opportunities.  If you latch on to problems and worry away at them, it will not make them pass more quickly.  The same goes for successes, no amount of grasping will keep them for longer than they wish to stay.  Celebrate them but do not think they will last forever.  Don't fear death.  If your bus has come a hundred thousand fathers could not save you, and if your bus has not come, a hundred thousand enemies could not kill you.  Be side-less, just, fair, impartial, equaniminous.  The problems of this world are caused by discrimination, prejudice, and favoritism.  Let those things stop with you.

-thaha "knowledge" and more than that, it is not quite translatable.  Ignorance is a terrible plague that causes suffering.  Search for knowledge always.  Know yourself - your body, it's functions, your purpose.  Know nature - understand plants, animals, natural cycles, and your place among them.  With this understanding, act.

-bani change "habit change."  After knowing, and discovering what are right and wrong habits for your body, your relationship with others, and with nature, change those habits that are out of alignment.  Be a change-maker, bani change.

-Learn all the important skills.  We need skills in 5 areas to avoid suffering and be happy in life.  We must know food, clothing, shelter, technology, and dance.  From planting the seed to eating the rice, learn the skills to produce, process, and prepare food.  This is the most important and takes the most time.  Next learn to keep yourself properly clothed.  You should at least know how to sew to fix your own clothes, and ideally you should be able to take a raw material and make it into something to wear - from sheep to sweater.  Then, shelter - learn to build a proper home.  At least, you should know the basics of electrical wiring, plumbing, and construction.  Technology is essential in today's modern world.  Learn to use transportation such as bicycles and cars or even helicopters.  Learn to use computers, to write, find information, and communicate with the wider world.  Learn to care for these technological gadgets as well as use them.  Finally, dance - dance for health, for confidence, and to keep harmony with the outside world.  Balance with rhythm and music keeps you in tune with nature.  Being out of harmony is one of the biggest challenges we face as a species, dance helps us find that balance.

-Divide your life into three parts.  Have money to eat and learn until you are 30.  Have money to eat and invest in your children's education until they are grown.  Then, have money to eat and give away.  Don't give your wealth to your children, don't spoil them.  Give them the skills and knowledge and opportunity to succeed on their own.  If you have extra, give it to those who need it, not your well-equipped children.

-Invest in land.  You need a place to stand if you are going to say or do something.

-Work with your mind and work with your hands.  Without thought, manual labor is empty.  Without labor, education is useless.  Exercise your brain and your body.  Keep them both strong and healthy with work.

-Get dirty.  Today's children in Nepal live concrete lives. They wake up and get out of bed to their concrete floor, they go to their fancy school on the back of a motorbike without touching the earth, they remain always touching concrete.  They are told earth is dirty.  Their homes are clean and dirt free.  They do not know anything but "blah blah" recitation.  They get distinction, but they have no skills.  "No, no, honey, let mommy do that, you study and get distinction."  They never learned how to wash their clothes, scrub a pot, cook, or clean.  They know how to eat good food, wear expensive clothes, play with expensive toys, and "blah, blah."  These useless people cannot take care of the future.  In schools, the children should get dirty.  Work in the fields, gain all the skills they need.  What is the use of "blah, blah" distinction anyway?

I live with a visionary and I am learning something every day.  This just begins to scratch the surface.  I am inspired and daunted by his example.  I feel the weight of the responsibility of blessings.  I am searching for the way to proceed.  I have so many questions.  I hope I can honor Madan maamaa with my own life's doings.  I hope he will be proud to have known me and inspired me one day.




Thursday, September 9, 2010

Brief snippet of info!

Hey!  So I will do a real post soon, but here is a little something I threw together about the dZi foundation.  Check it out:


Here is a brief summary of our progress so far.  
  • dZi works in 5 Village Development Committees in two districts of eastern Nepal (Khotang and Solukhumbu) serving a total population of 11,814 (according to the 2001 census)
  • Our earliest projects began in April of 2007 and since then we have completed 50 multi-element projects
  • The total cost of these projects to date is $617,146 and local contribution has covered 28%
  • In some projects, local contribution is as high as 78%
  • Physical achievements: 966 new sanitary toilets, 50 Parent Teacher Associations, 38 new classrooms affecting12 new and existing schools, 20 drinking water projects, 6 community buildings, 6 improved bridges, 4 improved trails, 3 improved school roofs, 3 agricultural income generation projects, 1 water mill, employment for 1 native language teacher
Pretty rad, right?  

:)  

Love, Hailey

Monday, August 16, 2010

Back in the Valley

Hello Friends,

So we have been back in Kathmandu for the past week.  When we first got here we both got a bit sick from the pollution.  Rughaa lagyo.  But now we are both feeling better.  We got some magic potion called "Sancho" (health) which is available at every corner store.  It works wonders.  It's a mixture of eucalyptus oil, mint oil, camphor, cinnamon oil, and lemongrass oil. "For cold, cough, rheumatism, stuffy nose, fatigue, bodyache, muscular ache, neuralgia, sprain, and itching."  Really works like a charm.  You can put it on bites and they stop itching, or a couple drops under the nose before bed to cure a rughaa.  Awesome. 

We also met Ben, my boss and friend.  I am super excited to work with him and he is a very inspiring guy.  Speaking of inspiring people, I also met Madan Rai, the man whose home I will be staying in.  He is really incredible.  A man who started life as a child porter, never had a pair of shoes until he was 18.  Now he is a Thulo Manche, very highly respected and well to do.  He spouts philosophy of life most of the time too, so I think I will learn a lot living with him.  Another cool person that I met was Pawan Rana, a friend of a friend.  He was really cool and he also lives in Patan, so we will have to hang out later too.

We also went to Bhaktapur because we wanted to get out of the pollution a little. That was really nice.  We stayed at a guest house up on a hill and out of the noise and smoke of the city.  Tonight we are back in Thamel because we are heading to the Chitwan tomorrow.  We will wake up early for a raft trip tomorrow, spend the night on the river and then continue south to see the elephants and rhinos and look for tigers.  So that's what's up!  Leave me a comment if you love me, hahahaha...

Take care,
love,
Hailey

Friday, August 6, 2010

Pokhara, Tangting, Bandipur

Wow, I have really been failing at updating my blog, sorry about that - having too many adventures! So today Sarah and I got to Bandipur - a little Newari village on a hilltop with an amazing view of the Himalayas and a sweet little bazaar area.  It's fantastic.  Not so hot as it was down in Pokhara, but it's still hot.  I haven't used my sleeping bag once!  I had a sleeping sack but Sarah and I both left ours on the bus today - ditched due to bed bug concerns.  Hopefully the bugs were contained in the plastic bags we left on the bus haha, I feel a bit irresponsible disposing of them thus, but ke garne... So you are probably wondering what I have been up to and also where the bugs came from.  Sarah and I have decided to do a co-post to attempt to sum up our times here.  I'll try to be better in the future... hehehehe

Day 1 - Hung out in Thamel.  We met some people from the Gandharbha caste - musicians - they played a concert for us and we danced.  That night we went to a pub quiz for charity at PUB MAYA - nothing to do with Mexican food...

Day 2 -  Perfection of Giving practice.  This is sort of a long story but I will just say that we now have an Indian family.  We went to Bouddha.

Day 3 - We found Heidi, a lady from the plane who we toured Hong Kong with, at the Hyatt and the orphans she was helping were swimming in the pool.  We also met a friendly dog that adopted us for the day.

Day 4 - Breakfast with our Indian family in the tent village - butter toast and cookies from home.  Then we went to see my Nepali family in Balkot.  We planted rice in the fields with them and got muddy and sunburned.  It was fun to see them and they LOVED the gifts.

Day 5 - Rest day, hung out around Bouddha. Spent the morning painting and reading.  Our Indian brother wanted to buy us Indian dress that day so we had an adventure to get some.

Day 6 - Bus ride to Pokhara, the seats smelled like a fat man sweat all over them - ICK.  Met Roshan and his friend Avinash at the bus station.  Met my Kumari didi and gave her some stuff.  Went and saw a real live lotus pond - it was gorgeous.

Day 7 - Went to visit Roshan's old school and ended up teaching classes.  Fun, challenging, awkward.  In the afternoon we went to the Mountain museum and climbed Macchapuchare.  For dinner Roshan took us to the Korean restaurant in Lakeside - kim chi is interesting.... not my favorite - I would put it in the same category of likingness as sushi.

Day 8 - We visited a bunch of Roshan's relatives in the morning, taught a couple of periods at the school, and then went to the caves.  We went to the mall first to get Roshan's soccer jersey.  Then we went to see the bat cave and the Mahendra cave.  We only had one flashlight and were not wearing our spelunking attire, but we got deep into the caves.  The exit from the bat cave was a shimmy tunnel, surprise!  The other cave was even better though.  There was a man at the front who wanted to guide us and told us that the cave went deeper than the lighted section.  Naturally we chose to explore it ourselves.  We saw WAY more bats, and WAY closer than in the bat cave and had the awesome experience of finding the way in the dark dark dark. After the caves, we went swimming at the extremely chemical-ated pool.  Roshan's buddy is a lifeguard there so we got in free.  It was fun, but we were afraid our hair might be green at the end.  That was a big day.

Day 9 - Roshan's grandma had a new house puja going that we checked out.  After seeing that once in the morning, we walked to the powerhouse and Sarah got the first leech bite. That night we went back to the puja - an all night party for god and old ladies.  We sang and danced.

Day 10 - We slept late that morning and had DiDo for breakfast.  That day we went to David's Fall, an AWESOME waterfall with Roshan's friend from the Tangting community in Pokhara.  It was huge and beautiful.

Day 11 - Sarah and I went for a walk in the morning on our own, there is so little privacy here it felt like we had hardly had a chance to just talk!  That afternoon we went Begnas Thall and (almost) to Rupa Thall on Roshan and Avinash's bikes (motorcycles).  We got stuck in a HUGE mud pit at one point.  The lakes were cool though and it was fun.

Day 12 - We took a canoe across Fewa Thall to see the "Chinese Gomba" or Peace Pagoda.  We went swimming in a nice cool stream in our clothes - it was worth the wetness.  Then we climbed up to the Pagoda.  It's big and white and has a nice view.  On the way Roshan and I sang.  It was fun.  We walked down the other side by way of a less traveled hilltop that was also awesome.  There were some menacing clouds in the sky and on the bus ride back it broke.  The water POURED out of the sky in buckets turning the road into a river.  Roshan lives in the Compton of Pokhara so it was hard to get a taxi that night, but finally one took us.  We tried to stay dry at first, but by the time we got to Roshan's house we were pretty well soaked.  There were some huge puddles and we prudently splashed in them before bed.

Sarah is writing the next days:
Day 13 - We woke up early (4:45) and walked to two nearby temples. On the way to the second we ran into Nathalie, a student from Whitman, and Josh, a guy we met at Roshan's school and made plans to meet them for dinner. We attempted to make pancakes for Roshan and his family - it kinda worked, chocolate and bananas, yum! That afternoon we climbed up a hill and danced on a picnic table at the top. Then we went to Lakeside for dinner at a place with traditional music and dance. Roshan's mom scolded him for staying out too late.

Day 14 - We spend most of the day chilling up on a hill near SarankoT, the paragliding place. I taught Roshan some photography and we tried dried meat - suketi.

Day 15 - We spent most of the day hiking up to Tangting with Kumari didi, a nearby Gurung village where Hailey stayed last time. There were lots of leeches, but our boots and pants kept most of them out. Some escaped detection until bed though and we smashed and sliced them with Hailey's knife...ick...

Day 16 - We went to Kumari did's house. All the houses have bathrooms now (they didn't 2 years ago). Then we went to the school (Kumari is a teacher there)thinking maybe we'd get to interact with the kids somehow or at least watch a class, but no, we just sat in the office/library all day reading books. At least it was a half day...Oh, and on the day we arrived in Nepal, one of the teachers at the school died mysteriously. The villagers stay it was a ghost - they found her out in the fields. After school we went to the 'hotel', a sort of cafe, and sang (or listened to rather) a bunch of Gurung songs that we didn't understand. Our stomachs were acting up a bit too.

Day 17 - We didn't sleep well because our stomachs were still cramping, but probiotics work pretty well. Roshan showed us a sliding rock he used to play on as a kid - you sit on a bunch of leaves and branches and whoosh, like sledding without show, fun. We went skinny dipping that afternoon, fun, excitement, cold and refreshing! When we got back the neighbor, a tiny 11 year old girl named Purnimaa wanted to take us around. There was a dance program that night for us, awkward, Hailey gave a brief speech. Her and Roshan danced on stage. We tasted raksi (local alcohol) and decided it tastes like sour milk that has had sweaty gym socks soaked in it, yum!

Day 18 - We showered (or poured cold water on ourselves). We went down to the powerhouse and ran into the other Americans who were visiting. A HUGE (like tarantula sized) spider fell down onto my bed which I realized once I grabbed it, came really close to screaming. We went to another dance program, this time in someone's house, for the other Americans. They finally got me to dance, if you can call it that...

Day 19 - We hiked up to nauju. The original plan was to go up to get a good view of the mountains, but it was misty and you couldn't see a thing, still fun though. There were lots of leeches on the way up and we killed them with salt. We felt so bad though watching them limp away, we literally cried, the poor things. That afternoon we played with the neighbors (the little boy is ADORABLE!) and gave them bubbles which were a huge hit! On the way back from wandering around it started pouring and we borrowed some traditional umbrellas which were surprisingly effective. That night there was another dance program for us, at the other community house. Hailey gave another short speech. There was a storm right over our heads, rained all night long. Bedbugs appeared that night, no good, now we're both completely covered in spots (fleas took care of our arms and legs).

Day 20 - The rain caused a huge landslide where there'd been a smaller one before, blocking Seti Kholaa ('white river') and creating a lake dammed by a giant pile of dirt that could go at any minute, so our plans to hike back to Pokhara that day were canceled. Instead, we walked down closer to the landslide for a better view. It was intense and amazing! I've never seen anything like it. So many newly planted fields were destroyed and 4 or 5 people were buried in the debris. The school is right above the slide, and the whole area around it looks like it could go at any minute if there's more heavy rain (or rather when, it's monsoon season after all).

Day 21 - We walked back to Pokhara, took up most of the day. The water had created a fairly stable channel through the mud so we thought it safe to continue, less danger of a flash flood. We showed countless people photos of the landslide. I slipped and fell and my churaa (glass bangles) broke and scraped up my wrist. We ran out of water and used iodine, yuck. We were lucky to find a jeep and had an exciting ride back. The jeep couldn't cross the river this time so we walked across and hopped on a local school bus, walking the final few minutes back to Roshan's, exhausted. We showered and slept.

Day 22 - Our last day in Pokhara. We washed pretty much all our clothes, decided to toss the bug ridden ones. Then we made oatmeal chocolate chip cookies (managed to find all the ingredients, sort of, they were a bit odd, but still tasty). We went to Lakeside for dinner with Roshan's friend. Roshan and I arm wrestled, he won, but it was the longest arm wrestling match I've ever seen. My arm is a bit sore today...

Day 23 - we took the bus today to Bandipur. Went to our hotel which is pretty awesome and has a gorgeous view. We showered and slept, then ate, and now we are in the internet cafe, and have been here for several hours checking email and writing this, so it is time to go I think before the power goes out or something...

So that brings us up to date.  There is much more to say of course, but now I am very much finished with staring at this screen. 

Lots of love to everyone!!!

Hailey /  UMA

Oh, and Sarah's nepali name is Ritu, it means "season."

Tata

Friday, July 16, 2010

Kathmandu as a Tourist

Wow, it is so different to be here as a tourist with no schedule.  Today is day 3 but it feels like an eternity.  We are in Bodha right now staying near the big big stupa.  Google it, but keep in mind that it is the rainy season so the sky is gray and it is raining a lot.  I have more to say but not quite yet.  I will just let you all know that I doing well and enjoying myself.

LOVE,
Hailey

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Welcome Back

Hello Friends and Family!

I am going back to Nepal this summer and will be living there for the next 10 months!  I am reviving this blog for you all as a way to keep you up to date about my life.  So here's a brief update of where I am at now and what I'm going back to Nepal to do.

Currently, I am in Midpines, California working at the Outward Bound base as a Logistics Coordinator.  It is great work and I love the people I get to be with.  I will only be here for 9 more days though because I am heading home to decompress and pack before heading to Nepal.

I leave for the mountain country July 12th with my best friend, Sarah!  We are going to be traveling around visiting people I met before and adventuring for the first 7 weeks of our stay.  On the way we will go through Hong Kong, where we have a layover for a whole day.  If you know anyone who could show us around on July 14th please email me!  We hope to learn some skills, make some friends, and see some amazing things.  Sarah heads home September 1st and I start working that same time.

I will be working for the dZi Foundation based out of an office in Patan, in the Kathmandu Valley.  I feel extremely privileged to be able to work with such an amazing organization and I highly recommend it to anyone looking to use charitable gifts for development in a responsible way.  I will be working in the office for most of the time and also visiting their field sites in remote areas of the Solu region of Eastern Nepal.

For anyone concerned about my safety, I urge you not to worry too much.  The State Department warnings are rather exaggerated.  There was a big issue back at the beginning of May which Kunda Dixit writes about really well.  Also check out Nepal News and the Nepali Times for the latest.

Well, I better get back to work, I am on the clock and the brownies for tomorrow's course start are just about done.  Take care!  Leave comments! Any feedback for the blog?

Thanks!
Love, Hailey