Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Independence-haami sakchhau!

For the first time in my life I am proud to be an American. As I was in our kitchen listening to Obama's acceptance speech in Chicago I couldn't stop the tears pouring down my face. I am so happy for myself, for what this means for my country, for my children's lives and for the world. Yes we can, what a great slogan. In Nepali, it's haami sakchhau.

Anyways, in addition to that, things have been going well here. Today, I had a cooking class. It was awesome. Now I have recipes for all the things that I'm sure I will crave when I get home. I will be making a lot of Nepali rice pudding (khir) for Christmas dessert. I ate so much of it today I could hardly move. It was awesome.

In other news, I have 2 days left of language classes before my test! I can't believe how fast it has gone. I also can't believe that next week I will be out on my own doing research in Simigaau! My plan is this: Buddhism Lived and Learned - A Comparison of the practices and beliefs of lay people and lamas in Simigaau and Rowaling. Simigaau is a small Sherpa and Tamang village just north of Kathmandu. It takes a day on a bus and then a day walking to get there. I will be staying there for 2 weeks working in the school teaching English and surveying and interviewing people about their religious beliefs and practices. Then I'll go up to Rowaling, another day's walk above Simigaau. That village is situated at 14,000 ft and is all Sherpa. They cultivate potatoes and herd yaks for a living. They also have a big gompa (Buddhist monastary) there. I will spend my time in Rowaling getting to know some monks and experiencing high altitude himalayan life. I AM SO EXCITED!!!!!!!!!

So yeah that's where I'm going from here. Obviously, there will be no internet there but I may update again before I go.

Also, if you want anything awesome from Nepal let me know. I can buy stuff for you if you want to pay me back! There are awesome hippy clothes, cool rugs and wall hangings, thanka paintings, and much more available for cheap!

And lastly, call me! My number is 011-977-1-558-0067 . Call from skype for cheap and then we can talk at your leisure instead of when I can get to a cyber cafe. It's my family's phone so ask for Hailey or Uma. DO it!

I miss you!

hailey

Saturday, November 1, 2008

An Excerpt From My Journal in Tangting

Oct 23, 2008 7:57 am

Dear Journal,

Yesterday I got up early and went to bed late. I woke up around 5 am to pee and the stars were gorgeous. I got my sleeping pad and jacket and sat out and watched them fade away over the himals. I saw the big dipper and a feeling that my beloved was looking at it too came over me. My heart talked to his heart in that moment. Once the stars had disappeared, I went about my morning business. I wrote up my village religion interview presentation after talking to my aamaa a little. Then I ate my bhaat (rice) and went to school. I was with Soorja -ji for the first time in a long time and it was pretty fun. He is so funny! I learned how to say that an action caused something "Because I danced a lot, my legs hurt" for example. Then we had chiyaa (tea) and syaau (apples) and Sila made his same old joke again. " chiyaa chhaina! raksi matra chha." (there's no tea, only alcohol.) - such a funny old man. Then we played a little game called tito/mito (bitter/tasty) and recounted life experiences to practice speaking. Hearing everyone else talk made me feel good about myself. :) Then we had tuna momos (not my fave) and tibetan bread for lunch. I got my test back - 96% whoot! My roll number = 1! heh heh. In the afternoon we presented our interviews. It was really interesting, but I got uncomfortable sitting so long.

Then I went to see the UK folks's welcome. It was fun even though it rained a bit. I got out my mom's sari wrap to keep dry and fit in with the Gurung ladies. The local band then led in a parade of British donors with crazy elephant toots and cymbal crashes and a rhythmic beat on the drum. I was chatting with 2 young guys. It was nice because everyone speaks Gurung here to have someone talk to me in Nepali. I gave a garland to a British lady whoe was rather weighted down by them already. Afterwards I went home with Kusum and Himaal (my little brother and sister) and had my daal bhaat with saag (spinach) that had just been picked a few minutes before.

It was dark, but I wanted to see what was going on with the foreigners so I went down to the school grounds where they were staying. It was very dark (they dont have electricity in Tangting) and my little sister's words "Dar laagena? tara schoolmaa bhutharu baschha!" were ringing in my ears (you aren't scared? but there are ghosts by the school!). In this village, most people believe in there are ghosts in the river and if you run into one they will give you trouble. As I walked, everything was quiet-no electricity, no electric buzz, and most people go to be early. I would hear water (the resting place of ghosts) long before I saw it and it was creepy. I could only see where my weak headlight beam shone (the moon wasnt up yet) so I was suprised by other people nearby that I heard before I saw. More than once "mero man chiso bhayo" as they say here (my heart became cold).

Finally, I got down to the school. There was a generator noisily providing light to the Brits dinner. There were 2 campfires burning and men everywhere. I found my didi (big sister) upstairs feeding the bideshis (foriegners). I met several Nepalis who had also come from the UK and talked with them a bit. I ended up sitting by the fire talking to 2 little boys, a man from Pokhara, and a teenage guy most of the night. It was fun. I learned how to ask if you've eaten in Gurung "kai sai ba?" and the answer is "sai". My didi appeared to be helping with EVERYTHING and therefore we were among the last of the villagers to leave for home. It was around 9:30 and I assumed we were going to bed. In fact, we went to another lady's house, close to the school, and she fed my didi.

As with any gathering of 11 women, there was a lot of fun and chatter going on. Unfortunately for me it was all in Gurung. A bit later however, it switched to Nepali. 3 men needed a place to sleep and this woman generously offered her kitchen floor. They came in and talked with us. The one guy had worked in London as a security gaurd and was telling ghost stories. I understood most of what he said and yet again thanked my lucky stars for my wonderful teachers here. I am amazed at how fluently I can understand and if not perfectly, speak Nepali after only 2 month of study. I even threw in my own ghost story about dad's old house in Denver where the cleaning lady wouldn't go in the basement becayse of the ghost of a drowned baby. "There are ghosts everywhere, in every country" that man kept saying.

Around 11 it was "yelli-o" belaa (time to go). The women made 2 torches and by their light we slowly went our way home. When we got there, Kumari didi needed my light so we went inside to check on aamaa and the kids. All four kids were in one bed adorably cuddling in their sleep. Kumari didi needed her daughter in her bed though so she pulled Kusum out of the tangle of children and lugged her upstairs. They both slept in my room with me.

I had all kinds of crazy dreams and in the morning I got up to go to the bathroom. This made Kumari didi all worried that I was sick. So far, I think I'm okay though. (knock on wood). Then I slept in a bit since I went to bed so late (11:30!) and when I got up I washed up and did my usual morning stuff. When I went to brush my teeth however there was some king of worm nestled in the bristles!!! Eww! I'm very glad that I saw it before I put it in my mouth. Then I had my tea, Magic Munch biscuits, and an egg. My family told me again about the old student who ate the whole egg, shell and all! Then I came up here to write. Just now, some of the UK people came into the yard to see the view. I went out to say hi to them but the Nepali came easier than English! I'll probably see more of them later. For now, my hand is getting a bit sore so I'll wrap this up. Later!

Hailey